Lipids are major ingredients in cosmetics and play an essential role in cosmetics ability to improve skin, hair, nail and mucuous membranes aspect, sensory qualities and condition, either by interacting with skin components, enhancing active ingredient release or by spreading and forming a protective layer on its surface.

Measuring Lipids efficacy to the skin is possible through a wide range of non invasive clinical and instrumental methods. Measurements of sebum, temperature, hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin surface topography, skin firmness, elasticity, colour enable to assess the lipids ability to protect the skin, hair and mucuous membrane (from pollution, cold, chemical aggression, dehydration), restore stratum corneum barrier function, improve cutaneous visco-elastic properties and surface characteristics, enhance skin or hair sensory qualities (softness, smoothness) or look (radiance, shine), nourish dry skins and mucuous membranes or help sooth sensitive ones. We explored the advantages and limits of these methods.

OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer, the new launch from Lubrizol, is a multifunctional oil soluble rheology modifier for skin care that enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components to create enchanting textures. It delivers superior viscosity with flexibility to create diverse forms, from thin oil gels, through mild emulsions. The polymer can also impart high emulsion stability without co-stabilizer, enabling the formulation of mild systems. This technology also offers superb clarity in a wide range of oils and emollients, maximizing visuals in a broad range of oils.

OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer provides sensory enhancement with a pleasant powdery afterfeel that mitigate the oiliness of the systems, leaving the skin soft and supple.

Retinoic acid is considered the gold standard to treat acne and improve the signs of ageing. Its negative lateral effects, on the other hand, are not allowing it to be used in pure cosmetics treatments.

At RAHN, we investigated natural bioflavonoids as a safe alternative, which mimics the retinoic acid activity.

During this talk, based on in-vitro and in-vivo studies, I'll show the visible refinement of acne-prone,  blemished skin (pores, sebum, shine) and a visible skin rejuvenation

by the use of the natural bioflovonoids.

SymControl™ Care is an extract of Tetraselmis suecica, a Mediterranean Sea green microalgae. It is cultivated in photobioreactors thus produced by blue biotechnology in an integrated and sustainable process.

SymControl™ Care has been shown ex-vivo to significantly downregulate the key mediator, COX-2, at the origin of sebum production and skin sensitivity. It also stimulates the production of skin structural proteins such as filaggrin by 164% to reinforce the skin barrier.

As the pollution is not only known to attack the cutaneous barrier leading to an increase of sebum but also to cause skin barrier dysfunction, we used a new developed ex-vivo human skin air pollution model to show that SymControl™ Care protects the skin barrier against harmful environmental pollutants.

A clinical study, with 30 volunteers applying a formulation with 2% SymControl™ Care twice daily for 4 weeks, allows to say that SymControl™ Care is a potent oil regulator, significantly reducing sebum by 31%, soothing the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. The result is a healthy looking, comfortable and balanced skin, even after only one week.

The consumption of cosmetics products is constantly growing, which implicates a higher degree of attention by the authorities and professionals involved. Despite the common legal framework, there are different interpretations and applications depending on the context. The non compliance of this regulation supposes a direct impact on a brand, as much as economical as reputational. One of the most up-to-date debates is the one about claims. It is determinant to analyse and consider the different testing methods available to properly justify them

Laboratory tests are basic tools and, nowadays, essentials for companies, due to they allow to guarantee the safety of the product and carry out marketing campaigns. Currently, there is a wide offer to choose from, among tests for the quality control of the product, in vitro assays and in vivo clinical trials. This makes necessary an adequate management of this specialized information. Aware of this, Lab & Clin Alliance has developed a program aimed at maximizing the investment in trials, through the appropriate selection of them. The objective is to create a collaborative environment between marketing and regulatory by having a much more defined security context.

Oily skin is a worldwide aesthetic problem which concerns all skin types, all ages and both genders. Our daily habits influence the production of sebum. Indeed, oily skin is linked to hyperactive sebaceous glands that produce too much sebum. Three clinical signs are linked to oily skin: Shininess as a consequence of the overproduction of sebum, enlarged visible pores linked to hyperkeratinization and imperfections related to the virulence of P. acnes.

In order to counteract these signs, BASF BCS developed Bix’Activ^®, a water seed extract of Bixa orellana.

In vitro, Bix’Activ^® inhibits lipid overproduction in human sebocytes from different ethnicities (Caucasian, Black and Asian). Interestingly, we showed the inhibitory activity of Bix’Activ^® in a novel 3D human ex vivo sebaceous gland model with impressive 3D images (collaboration with CTI Biotech). In addition, Bix’Activ^® targets a specific secreted protein linked to hyperkeratinization and inhibits significantly the lipase activity of P. acnes.

Impressive clinical results show on Asian female

• Significant reduction versus placebo of the activity of sebaceous glands with visible effects on skin matification.
• Reduction of the pore size by 9% vs D0.
• Preserved skin hydration.

An outstanding perception of users regarding both pores and oil reduction after 8 weeks.

The consumer uses cosmetics mainly to look and feel better. New trends and new product concepts are appealing to the average consumer, which makes the cosmetic industry strongly marketing oriented. The science behind many cosmetic products, however, is state of the art. In this context, substantiating cosmetic claims is not an easy task. This is especially the case for cosmetic active ingredients. These ingredients are both tested in vitro and in vivo with the aim to supply the cosmetic producing industry with a product which is both efficacious and safe. An important emphasis is put on making sure that the in vitro and in vivo studies on a particular active ingredient are relevant and coherent, where the results obtained in the in vivo studies are in line with those obtained in vitro.

LUMICEASE™ blue ingredient is an extract obtained through biotechnology from a radiation-resistant microorganism able to adapt and survive to high radiation, such as those from outer space. The ingredient responds to the current demand of protection from solar and artificial blue light from electronic devices, that negatively affect our skin appearance.

The ingredient activates the epidermal photosensors, opsins, and promotes the skin adaptive response to prepare it for light exposure. Furthermore, it offers protection and repair from light-induced damage, minimizing the main signs of digital and photoaging.

Optimised High-Sun Protection Factor with titanium dioxide (TiO2), as an inorganic UV absorber, is often a challenge for formulators, as TiO2 tends to partially flocculate, either in the formulation or on the skin.

This flocculation leads to undesirable skin whitening, uneven skin tone and/or compromises sensorial experience. This presentation describes a new approach to boost the performances of inorganic-based sunscreens by the use of SOLTEX™ INO polymer, containing TiO2, ZnO or iron oxide powders or dispersions. By weakly complexing to the surface of these inorganic powders, SOLTEX™ INO polymer increases the spacing between these inorganic

powder particles, suppressing their flocculation and enabling non-whitening pleasant feel sunscreen formulations with, additionally, SPF boosting effects.

It exists several internal factors which affects our appearance and natural aging process (mainly genetic factors). Recent scientific publications establish a genetic association between the MC1R gene and the facial appearance that we show regarding to our age.

At the same time, there is a great correlation between certain external factors and how they act by modifying, in positive and in negative, the age of our skin. Highlighting factors such as intense and prolonged solar exposure over time, which represents an average of four years more on the biological clock of our skin and in the case of tobacco, two years on average more. However, a healthy hydrated skin, as well as a good oral hygiene appearance makes us look two years younger.

Thus, epigenetics plays a fundamental role since it analyzes how the environment and external factors interact with our genes.

Throughout the presentation, we will discuss the new trend of cosmetic products focused on the prevention of the exposome or external factors to which we daily expose ourselves (solar radiation, pollution, stress, food, microorganisms), which influence directly on our cutaneous aging and the relations with our biological clock.

The authors of the presentation are Jessica Romero and Elisabet Fernández, R&D researchers in LEITAT.

In recent years, advances in the knowledge of the human microbiome have represented a revolutionary response in questions related to human health. Given the demonstrated relevance of the cutaneous microbiome in the maintenance of the skin health, it will be reviewed the existing tools for the analysis of skin microbiota and the available methods to evaluate the action of functional cosmetic products - prebiotics, probiotics-, as well as the impact of personal care and hygiene. The in vitro models developed by LEITAT will also be presented, based on the co-culture of microorganisms and human cells, which allow the study of the interaction and communication between both cell types. These models offer new possibilities for obtaining relevant information and greater representativeness in testing both, ingredients and final products.

On top of natural, consumers are now seeking for ethical and sustainable generation of products, delivering high level of efficacy while resonating with passions. Created from the inspirational world of fragrances raw materials, Active Beauty has designed a unique active to answer these new consumers’ needs. From the upcycle of exhausted fine fragrances vetiver roots, Vetivyne™ is a fully natural, concentrated odour-free extract showing impressive skincare benefits.

Vetivyne™ is the first cosmetic ingredient derived from Givaudan Innovative Naturals programme supporting a cooperative of over 260 vetiver farmers in Haiti, who achieved Ecocert organic standard and fair trade certification. Its exclusive water based extraction and purification processes are highly respectful of the environment, delivering a superior natural quality.

Three clinical studies versus placebo on mature volunteers have shown the significant consumers benefits of Vetivyne™: skin regains its tonicity (+11%) and reduces its mechanical fatigue (-18%).
100% of the volunteers showed a reduction of their perilabial wrinkles down to -18%. Impressively,
Vetivyne™ is boosting by +25% the long-lastingness and sensuality of fine fragrances on skin.

Water soluble, China compliant, odour-free and sustainable by nature, Vetivyne™ offers new creative possibilities to design the next generation of ethical, traceable, sustainable and natural skincare products.

City life is an amazing experience, full of opportunities, but our skin is under constant attack. Every day, indoor and outdoor stress negatively affects the skin’s natural hydration, causing it to dry out much faster. The key needs of skin exposed to urban stress are fast-acting and long-term hydration with targeted care for problem areas.

With the help of Chinese women living in the highly-polluted megacity of Beijing, DSM scientists has been using its revolutionary visualization technology to study dry skin and hydration in urban settings. This technology allowed us to produce color images of the face, that showed Chinese women have excessively dry skin in the problematic cheek and jaw areas.

Remarkable images also revealed the true hydration power of DSM’s natural moisture-magnet PENTAVITIN®, an unique skin-identical carbohydrate complex. Three hours after a single application, excessively dry skin areas are already much better hydrated. Used daily, PENTAVITIN® provides powerful hydration to all facial areas.

Vytrus Biotech presents the new active ingredient, QUORA NONI^PRCF, a concentrated metabolome of totipotent cells from the Noni plant (Morinda citrifolia), rich in anti-quorum sensing molecules (Anti-Quormones) specially designed to act synergistically against Quorum sensing mediated microbial dysbiosis and its side effects. The active offers a new mechanism of action against acne and other skin conditions, blocking the microbiome negative communication signals (Quorum sensing via Quormones). In nature, plants use anti-Quorum sensing signals to protect themselves from microbial attack, and this is exactly what the active does: it uses plant specifically designed Quorum sensing blockers to act on skin microbiome, disarming the bacteria by hacking their communication systems, just like plants do, avoiding the formation of biofilms and the development of bacterial virulence, without killing or threatening the microbiota. It doesn’t contain antibiotics, avoiding the potential resistance that microbes can develop, and it is also bacteriostatic, maintaining the microbiome balance. The active is anti-inflammatory, has broad bacteriostatic effect., and inhibits the expression of gene Lux-S, responsible for the synthesis of Quormones, Several in Vivo tests demonstrated the ability of the ingredient to reduce pore size and sebum formation, and to dynamically control the microbiota population, re-balancing it, while decreasing the relative proportion of virulent bacteria.

Driven by the ever increasing global concerns around climate change and the scarcity of natural resources, consumer demand for sustainable products continues to grow. To help respond to these concerns, many formulators in the cosmetics industry choose to replace non-sustainable ingredients or increase the content of green ingredients wherever possible. But in categories such as hair styling, achieving these goals without compromising on product performance has remained a real challenge -- until now.

Using itaconic acid produced from fermented corn starch and a patented process with break-through economics, Itaconix has developed the first styling polymers to be COSMOS approved by ECOCERT Greenlife. RevCare NE 100S holds style under the most demanding of high humidity environments, defining curls and fighting frizz with a wonderful natural feeling on the hair. To defend against the damaging effects of hot styling, RevCare HP protects the hair cuticle from damage and washes out easily, leaving no unwanted product build-up. Exploiting the versatile chemistry of itaconic acid and innovating even further, Itaconix have recently developed RevCare MC as a natural solution to malodour control.

Naturally derived polymers like these simply have to be the part of the future for a sustainable personal care industry.

Today we know that not everything is determined by our genes but that they can be influenced by external factors. This is precisely what the epigenetics studies. Epigenetics is the new frontier in cosmetology. Factors that we previously thought were irreversible, such as hair loss, can now be reversed thanks to cosmetic ingredients that are able to reactivate the genes functionality.

EstoGel is an oil soluble polymer. Easy to handle, this product allows incredible clear gels.

It's the best ingredient for the formulations containing oils because of its soft and neutral touch.

This product is bio-sourced and has tremendous properties even at 1% concentration. The gelation phenomenon is based on supramolecular chemistry using hydrogen bonding.

As a result, the gel presents a thixotropic behavior. This property offers the ability to play smartly with the final product rheology.

The minimalist concept is a trend in skin care products. It gives priority to simplicity, the use of the most suitable ingredients and the right synergic combinations.

Whilst based on the notion of "less is more", minimalism in cosmetics is not as simple as it might seem. Minimalism encompasses several different concepts, ranging from "free from" formulations or genderless products, to a return to basic ingredients and low energy production processes.

Minimalism brings awareness towards all that is natural, ethical and sustainable as much as possible. Minimalism requires knowledge on what elements are being included in the cosmetic products we are using as well as what is the reason for their presence in the formulation.

Minimalist formulations in skin care present a technical challenge in the development of final products. They demand multi-functional ingredients that provide sensoriality, structure and activity in finished cosmetics, whilst also being able to impress, satisfy and gain the loyalty of the consumer.

Nowadays, consumers are aware about the need to incorporate sun protection to their daily skin care routines. Formulators are used to work with chemical filters; however, formulation with mineral filters may be a challenge not always attractive. We will explain how to overcome the challenges with last generation mineral filters. ADPCosmetics commercializes EnhanceU and EffectiveU, nano-free mineral filters characterized by an excellent UVA-UVB balance thanks to an exclusive fabrication procedure. These ingredients can be used in sunscreen, or colored formulations with protection, to guarantee stability and photostability. ADPCosmetics’ filters are ECOCERT and COSMOS labeled.

MossCellTec™ No. 1 is a highly innovative active based on a novel anti-aging concept: the cell nucleus health. In plus it is based on a new ingredient source: it is first active ingredient from biotechnologically produced moss.

Mosses were the first plants to conquer the land about 470 million years ago. They used their extraordinary adaptation abilities to survive from the prehistoric age until today. MossCellTec™ is an innovative technology based on the protonema culture of the moss Physcomitrella patens that now makes it possible to benefit from those extremely resilient properties.

The active maintains cell nucleus health. a completely novel anti-aging concept. The cell nucleus contains the cell’s DNA and it is involved in regulating essential cellular processes. Extensive studies showed that MossCellTec™ No. 1 activates the lamin A gene responsible for the nuclear envelope structure and the nuclear transport gene RanBP17. Both genes are down-regulated in aged keratinocytes. MossCellTec™ No. 1 supports the skin’s adaptation to climatic stresses in vitro and in vivo. MossCellTec™ No. 1 strengthens skin against urban aggressors and climatic changes and improves the hydration, barrier and homogeneity of the skin after just two weeks.

Microcare^® Amide RIAM is a 100% active liquid “Palm free” amidoamine derived from vegetable Ricinoleic acid, which is used as a conditioning agent for hair care applications. With an improved eco-tox profile versus the traditional ingredients, the product is readily biodegradable, non-flammable and cold processable.

Its compatibility with anionics makes it suitable for transparent 2-in-1 shampoos providing superior detangling and fly away reduction. It can be also used in hair conditioners improving wet and dry combing and providing straightening effect.

RHEANCE® Glycolipids lead a new era of all-natural ingredients that do not compromise on performance.
Derived from nature to provide natural, pleasant sensations, combining excellent skin compatibility and powerful cleansing with unprecedented environmental compatibility.
• A new class of all-natural ingredients for rinse-off applications.
• Performance and reliability without compromises.
• For consumers' growing demands for pure and ultra-mild ingredients.
• Excellent environmental safety, respecting the planet's biodiversity.

In the recent trend of replacing the more harassed traditional preservatives by their adverse effects on the human health and the environment, a multitude of new substances have appeared that claim good activity and better compatibility on the skin and our environment. However, few of them can achieve to exceed the strict criteria of effectiveness required in accordance to the current standards and to ensure optimum preservation of the most critical cosmetic formulations. Unigolden has developed a range of products suitable to the different situations and requirements of the formulator that allow to optimize the preservation of formulations according to the level of efficiency, compatibility, cost and claims required.

Pollution became within a few years a major topic of concern. Causes of air pollution are multiple and associated with e.g. release of particulate matter (PM) and heavy metals. Upon pollutant exposure, biochemical reactions are initiated; e.g. overexpression of reactive oxygen species (ROS), release of inflammatory cytokines and metallothionein overexpression (MT1H). The ultimate consequences are visible signs of premature skin ageing. To circumvent that, taking benefit from Nature was our approach. Investigations were performed on an Indian goose berry tree extract well-known in Ayruvedic medicine: Phyllanthus Emblica officinalis (Emblica). Emblica notably shows outstanding antioxidant and metal-chelating properties. In order to have a picture of its anti-pollution properties, tests were done on in-vitro and ex-vivo levels. We explored in vitro, the protective effect against PM/UVA-induced ROS overproduction and the anti-inflammatory potential against cytokines release. In the ex vivo model, human explants were exposed to PM2.5 and heavy metals and the anti-pollution effect was studied by analyzing e.g. general morphology, MT1H expression. Results showed very promising anti-pollution effects in both models for all parameters. The results highlight how Nature offers a solution against e.g. human industrial excesses. Emblica represents a solid skin care anti-pollution solution fulfilling an increasing and justified demand of end consumers.