It is a multifunctional oil soluble rheology modifier for skin care, sun care and color cosmetic formulations, that enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components to create enchanting textures and attractive visual.

Exceptional low use level, broad oil type compatibility, it will allow formulators to rediscover the advantages of oil based formulations using a broad type of oils.

City life is an amazing experience, full of opportunities, but our skin is under constant attack. Every day, indoor and outdoor stress negatively affects the skin’s natural hydration, causing it to dry out much faster. The key needs of skin exposed to urban stress are fast-acting and long-term hydration with targeted care for problem areas.

With the help of Chinese women living in the highly-polluted megacity of Beijing, DSM scientists has been using its revolutionary visualization technology to study dry skin and hydration in urban settings. This technology allowed us to produce color images of the face, that showed Chinese women have excessively dry skin in the problematic cheek and jaw areas.

Remarkable images also revealed the true hydration power of DSM’s natural moisture-magnet PENTAVITIN®, an unique skin-identical carbohydrate complex. Three hours after a single application, excessively dry skin areas are already much better hydrated. Used daily, PENTAVITIN® provides powerful hydration to all facial areas.

Vytrus Biotech presents the new active ingredient, QUORA NONI^PRCF, a concentrated metabolome of totipotent cells from the Noni plant (Morinda citrifolia), rich in anti-quorum sensing molecules (Anti-Quormones) specially designed to act synergistically against Quorum sensing mediated microbial dysbiosis and its side effects. The active offers a new mechanism of action against acne and other skin conditions, blocking the microbiome negative communication signals (Quorum sensing via Quormones). In nature, plants use anti-Quorum sensing signals to protect themselves from microbial attack, and this is exactly what the active does: it uses plant specifically designed Quorum sensing blockers to act on skin microbiome, disarming the bacteria by hacking their communication systems, just like plants do, avoiding the formation of biofilms and the development of bacterial virulence, without killing or threatening the microbiota. It doesn’t contain antibiotics, avoiding the potential resistance that microbes can develop, and it is also bacteriostatic, maintaining the microbiome balance. The active is anti-inflammatory, has broad bacteriostatic effect., and inhibits the expression of gene Lux-S, responsible for the synthesis of Quormones, Several in Vivo tests demonstrated the ability of the ingredient to reduce pore size and sebum formation, and to dynamically control the microbiota population, re-balancing it, while decreasing the relative proportion of virulent bacteria.

The authors of the presentation are Jessica Romero and Elisabet Fernandez.

Today we know that not everything is determined by our genes but that they can be influenced by external factors. This is precisely what the epigenetics studies. Epigenetics is the new frontier in cosmetology. Factors that we previously thought were irreversible, such as hair loss, can now be reversed thanks to cosmetic ingredients that are able to reactivate the genes functionality.

Nowadays, consumers are aware about the need to incorporate sun protection to their daily skin care routines. Formulators are used to work with chemical filters; however, formulation with mineral filters may be a challenge not always attractive. We will explain how to overcome the challenges with last generation mineral filters. ADPCosmetics commercializes EnhanceU and EffectiveU, nano-free mineral filters characterized by an excellent UVA-UVB balance thanks to an exclusive fabrication procedure. These ingredients can be used in sunscreen, or colored formulations with protection, to guarantee stability and photostability. ADPCosmetics’ filters are ECOCERT and COSMOS labeled.

In the recent trend of replacing the more harassed traditional preservatives by their adverse effects on the human health and the environment, a multitude of new substances have appeared that claim good activity and better compatibility on the skin and our environment. However, few of them can achieve to exceed the strict criteria of effectiveness required in accordance to the current standards and to ensure optimum preservation of the most critical cosmetic formulations. Unigolden has developed a range of products suitable to the different situations and requirements of the formulator that allow to optimize the preservation of formulations according to the level of efficiency, compatibility, cost and claims required.

Pollution became within a few years a major topic of concern. Causes of air pollution are multiple and associated with e.g. release of particulate matter (PM) and heavy metals. Upon pollutant exposure, biochemical reactions are initiated; e.g. overexpression of reactive oxygen species (ROS), release of inflammatory cytokines and metallothionein overexpression (MT1H). The ultimate consequences are visible signs of premature skin ageing. To circumvent that, taking benefit from Nature was our approach. Investigations were performed on an Indian goose berry tree extract well-known in Ayruvedic medicine: Phyllanthus Emblica officinalis (Emblica). Emblica notably shows outstanding antioxidant and metal-chelating properties. In order to have a picture of its anti-pollution properties, tests were done on in-vitro and ex-vivo levels. We explored in vitro, the protective effect against PM/UVA-induced ROS overproduction and the anti-inflammatory potential against cytokines release. In the ex vivo model, human explants were exposed to PM2.5 and heavy metals and the anti-pollution effect was studied by analyzing e.g. general morphology, MT1H expression. Results showed very promising anti-pollution effects in both models for all parameters. The results highlight how Nature offers a solution against e.g. human industrial excesses. Emblica represents a solid skin care anti-pollution solution fulfilling an increasing and justified demand of end consumers.